Hostelling in Kyoto

By Michael Johnston

Anyone interested in traveling to Japan would not be disappointed by a visit to Kyoto, the nation’s former capitol. Historic Kyoto is home to many sights and is the birthplace of many of Japan’s wonders, such as rock gardens. Its designation as “the old capitol” is two-fold, as it is both the predecessor to Tokyo and the center of traditional culture. 

The hostel in Kyoto, Japan.

For those who plan a trip to Kyoto, the Higashiyama Youth Hostel is an affordable, as well as conveniently located, option. It is a short ride away from the Kyoto station on a single bus, the No. 5, which makes it easy to manage for foreigners who don’t speak Japanese. After hopping off the Shinkansen (the “bullet train”), ride the No. 5 until you reach Higashiyama-Sanjo; the four-story hostel is literally a few yards from the bus stop.

The convenient location doesn’t end there. The hostel is a mere block away from the historic Chion’in-ji Temple and the world-famous Heian Shrine. Simply take a right upon exiting the hostel and walk to the first intersection, from which both sights are visible; from there either take a left or a right, depending on which sight is to be visited first. There is also a shopping district three minutes away by bus in the opposite direction from the hostel, across the Kamo River.

For more distant sights in the city, travelers can rely on Japan’s excellent public transit system. All-day bus passes can be purchased for a mere ¥500 (about $5.00) at the front desk of the hostel, where free tourist maps, in English, are also available. These maps have easy directions on the back for finding famous sights of the city and a handy grid-style table for determining the correct bus or train to take from one district of the city to another.

The youth hostel offers four kinds of rooms: dormitories, twin, group, and Japanese-style. Dorms come with a sink and are furnished with rows of double bunk beds. Twin rooms have two single beds, a sink, TV and closet. Group rooms, meant for small groups traveling together, provide a few bunks, a sofa, closet and television. The Japanese-style rooms are bare, the ground being made of traditional tatami mats, and have a sliding-door closet and mock shoji windows. All are equipped with heating and air conditioning, though admittedly the systems operate better in some rooms than in others. Most rooms also have an ironing board, and all come with blankets; linens can be acquired for free from the front desk. The usual rate is ¥3,200 ($32) a night per person, unless booking a twin or group room, in which case the charge will be from ¥5,600 to ¥6,000 ($56-$60) a night per person. Rates increase between December 31 and January 5 for the new year holiday. The hostel also rents out a fairly large meeting room that is furnished with chairs and folding tables. 

The halls on all three floors above ground level, where guests stay, have a pay computer with internet access (¥100, or $1, for 15 minutes), TV, and tables and chairs. Each floor also has Japanese-style, computerized pay phones—one domestic and one international—that accept phone cards, which can be purchased at the front desk or from vending machines throughout the building, or loose change. Lockers are also available on each floor; keys can be purchased in the lobby. 

The men’s restroom is located on the second floor and the women’s on the third floor. Both Japanese-style (Turkish) and Western-style toilets are available. In Japanese fashion, however, the sinks are located outside the restroom, and soap and hand towels are not provided (the assumption being that guests carry their own). The men’s and women’s showers, located on the first floor, are each equipped with four Japanese-style sitting showers and a large communal bath. Soap, shampoo and hand towels can be acquired from the hostel if needed. The showers are only open from 6:00-7:30 a.m. and from 4:00-9:30 p.m. Higashiyama Youth Hostel also has its own laundry room, located in a small greenhouse-like loft on the third floor. Washers and dryers are available there for about ¥100 ($1) per use. A clothesline is located under the skylight.

The hostel offers both Japanese- and Western-style breakfasts and dinners as part of the room fee. Typical breakfasts include Miso soup, rice, pickled vegetables, raw fish and tea, or toast, hard boiled eggs and coffee; dinners change daily. Meals are served in the well-furnished dining room/lobby located on the first floor—breakfast from 7:00-8:00, dinner from 5:00-6:00. Vending machines, ice cream and even beer (both bottled and on tap), as well as souvenirs and other goods, are also for sale at the hostel. 

Higashiyama Youth Hostel and other such Japanese establishments follow certain customs that Americans may find peculiar. For example, most youth hostels in Japan have a curfew that patrons need to abide by. It is sometimes possible to gain access after Hagashiyama’s 10:30 curfew, but when the staff retires, the doors are locked. Another custom at the hostel, as elsewhere in Japan, is for guests to remove their shoes and check them at the door. Sandals are provided, or visitors can wear their own sandals or socks, or walk about in bare feet. It is also necessary to vacate the premises daily between 10:00 a.m. and 3:30 p.m. while the staff cleans house. 

All in all, Higashiyama Youth Hostel is a good place to stay. While some inconveniences exist, especially in the curfew and public showers, the price and convenient location make up for them. For travelers on a shoestring budget, or for those who are just frugal, Higashiyama Youth Hostel is an excellent choice.